Norfolk Island: basks
in historical splendour
By
Guest blogger - Rama Gaind
“Holy cow!” I exclaimed as I saw some of them break away from a herd and
cross the road, while others kept nonchalantly chewing on the succulent green grass,
oblivious of the hold-ups they had caused to vehicular traffic.
Les Quintal, our guide on the
orientation drive around Norfolk Island, quickly replied: “this is their
right”.
The farmers have grazing rights
to the roadside pastures so cows have the right of way – and they know it!
What’s more, it’s not surprising
to also see cars give way to chickens, ducks and geese crossing the road.
Norfolk is a pristine, petite
island of 3455 hectares sitting splendidly in the Pacific Ocean, east of the
Australian mainland and 1063 kilometres from Auckland.
You’ll be surprised not only by its
sheer sprawling magnificence, but also the amiability, warmth, openness, and
yes, a certain eccentricity that’s most appealing.
Norfolk Island was where the
“worst of the worst” convicts were sent, for this was an infamous prison in the
British Empire in the 1800s. Unpleasant stories of their mistreatment and
anguish abound, but the island is inhabited by descendants of the original
mutineers from Captain Bligh’s ill-fated voyage on the Bounty.
What’s more, the ghosts of the
past are still very much alive among today’s living!
Discovered by Captain James Cook
in 1774, the British used it as a penal colony, twice.
The original township of
Kingston, which is in the world heritage-listed Kingston and Arthurs Vale
Historic area, still stands guard on Slaughter Bay, and comprises a golf course
and a cemetery where the headstone inscriptions impart unsettling stories.
The island’s sorrow becomes
apparent as you meander through the ruins of the buildings built by the
convicts. While some have been restored and are in use as museums, homes and
government facilities, the roofless ones are exposed to the elements.
With a population of 1800—no, make that
1700 at present as the other 100 are working off-shore—Norfolk is eight kilometres by five kilometres with
170 kilometres of roads, no public transport and a surprising number of things
to do for such a small place.
Scenic views abound from the top
of Mt Pitt and Captain Cook’s Lookout; the ‘grand Gothic-style’ St Barnabas
Chapel with its stained glass windows is precious; take a tour of Norfolk Blue
to see how Robyn and Paul Menghetti produce a unique breed of cattle; and
marvel at Cyclorama, the 360-degree giant panoramic painting that follows the
story of the Bounty and its crew.
Driving is stress-free, with hardly
any traffic, one roundabout, no traffic lights, a 50-kilometre speed limit (30
kilometres in school zones), seatbelts were only introduced a year ago and you
must not forget to practise your ‘Norfolk wave’ by acknowledging the passing
driver with the gentle lift of the hand or one finger.
Roads have quaint names like Poverty
Row, Puppies Point, Cats Lane; phone numbers are five digits long; the
residents are listed in the telephone book by their nicknames; and be enthralled
by the special Norf’k language, a lilting blend of Tahitian and Old English.
This self-governing, external
territory of Australia is a tax haven where tourism is the only source of income.
It makes for an ideal destination for long weekend escapes.
Take your passport, there are no
long queues at customs and the friendly officials will greet you with a beaming
smile!
Rama Gaind was a
guest of Norfolk Island Tourism and Air New Zealand.
Travel facts
Air
New Zealand has direct flights from Sydney starting at $572 per person, from
Brisbane at $535 per person and with a domestic connection ex-Melbourne from
$960.
Bookings
can be made at www.airnewzealand.com.au
Air New Zealand flies out of Sydney at 9.10am and leaves Norfolk Island
at 2.30pm on Mondays and Fridays. It leaves Brisbane at 11am and Norfolk Island
at 3.50pm on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Pic 1
Splendid panoramic views can be seen from Norfolk Island, over the
Pacific Ocean, to Nepean Island (foreground) and the uninhabited Phillip
Island.
Pic2
Captain
Cook’s Lookout: on his second voyage around the world, Captain Cook discovered
and named Norfolk Island on 10 October 1774. Photo:
Rama Gaind
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